Practical
August in Rome: what's actually open
Half the city closes for ferragosto — but the half that stays is often the better half. A …
An ongoing notebook of what I tell clients on Zoom calls and over espresso — practical, opinionated, sometimes cranky.
Practical
Half the city closes for ferragosto — but the half that stays is often the better half. A …
Not the Instagram ones. The ones where the owner sits down at your table, where the cacio …
Six unwritten rules locals follow. When to arrive, what to order, why Negroni at 6pm but …