Palazzo Altemps

A Renaissance palace a minute off the north end of Piazza Navona, holding the Ludovisi collection — the Ares that Bernini was asked to restore, the Gaul killing himself and his wife, the throne with the girl being lifted out of the sea. Half of it is the building: a painted loggia, a courtyard nobody is ever standing in, and a fountain in the corner of it under a mosaic shell with putti climbing the front. Same ticket family as Palazzo Massimo, and just as empty.